His mother's grave is 50 kilometres away. He will never visit it.

An apricot farmer here keeps a portrait of his father — who died in Pakistan — beside him at home. His mother's grave is a day's walk across the mountains. By road, with a visa he cannot get and money he doesn't have, it is 2,500 kilometres.

"Many here have died without meeting, only in hope of meeting."

The tour guide also leads mules to army posts.

One of the tour guides here takes tourists up the mountain in summer. In winter he carries supplies to Indian military outposts on the same passes his relatives once crossed freely. He has never met his uncle's family. His mother still cries about her brother.

During the 1999 conflict, the men of this village came out only at night — to water the fields, to check the animals. The women and children were in the caves above.

They can message now. They cannot meet.

One family here reconnected with relatives in Pakistan through social media. They want to pray at a mosque together. They call it just a dream. They have watched the soldiers fortify the defences.

There is a Museum of Memories here.

It was built so people would not forget the faces they could once see across the valley. No travel guide mentions it.